From sdunavan@aol.com Thu Sep  1 13:37:27 CDT 1994
Article: 2750 of rec.food.historic
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From: sdunavan@aol.com (SDunavan)
Newsgroups: rec.food.historic
Subject: Re: Aztec food??
Date: 31 Aug 1994 22:22:14 -0400
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In article <34260m$5bc@Starbase.NeoSoft.COM>, claird@Starbase.NeoSoft.COM
(Cameron Laird) writes:  
<Slow down a moment there; did Mesoamericans grow quinoa? >

Well, technically, Mesoamericans didn’t (and don’t today) grow “quinoa”,
or  _Chenopodium quinoa_.  But they did (and do) grow a closely related
species of Chenodium known as _Chenopodium nuttalliae_ , or _Chenopodium
berlandieri subsp. nuttalliae_.  The two species’ seeds are virtually
indistinguishable without a microscope, and I can’t taste any difference. 
According to Charles Heiser (see below for references), this Mexican
chenopod “exists as three main cultivars:  huauzontle, used like broccoli,
quelite, used like spinach, and chia used as a grain.”(p. 68).  This is
not the same chia as the stuff on your chia pet, however, so don’t try to
get a crop off that.
	The only place I’ve seen the Mexican grain variety for sale is
from Native Seeds/SEARCH, a nonprofit group that maintains quite a few
traditional varieties of Native American crops.  They’ve branched out to
sell some food, too (their address is 2509 N. Campbell, Tucson, AZ 85719,
ph. 602/327-9123 for a catalog).  
	But get this!  The really exciting thing is that there is good
archaeological evidence for a domesticated variety of Chenopodium
berlandieri right here (well, that’s where I am) in the prehistoric
midwestern U.S.!  So instead of buying quinoa, it might be more authentic
to go gather the native variety yourself.  However, its a weedy species
now, with thicker, black seed coats.  Whether you collect it or buy it,
you should rinse it well to get some of the saponin off the seed coat.
	Some more trivia on the Mexican variety:  “Annual yields, as
reflected by tribute lists, were massive and the crop was well integrated
into ‘first fruit’ religious ceremonies associated with important Aztec
gods of fire and war....Ceremonial use of the plant, probably cultivars
with heavy pigmentation, involved production of a grain-based paste
(zoales) which was used to make idols.  This use in Aztec ceremony...was
the driving force for early Spanish extirpation of the plant and the
resulting paucity of ethnographic data” (Wilson 1990, p. 102).  It is
still grown quite a lot in Michoacan and Puebla, though.
	I could go on about chenopodium for a lot longer than most people
want to read, so e-mail me if anyone wants more.  Here’s some references
-- (apart from Sophie Coe’s book):
	
Wilson, Hugh D. (1990).  Quinua and relatives (Chenopodium sect.
Chenopodium subsect. Cellulata).  Economic Botany 44(3,
Supplement):92-110.

Heiser, Charles B. (1985).  Some botanical considerations of the early
domesticated plants north of Mexico.  In Prehistoric Food Production in
North America, edited by Richard I. Ford, pp. 57-72.  University of
Michigan Museum of Anthropology, Anthropological Papers 75, Ann Arbor.

Safford, W. E.  (1917).  Chenopodium nuttalliae, a food plant of the
Aztecs.  Journal of the Washington Academy of Science 8:521-527.  

Wilson, Hugh D. and Charles B. Heiser (1979).  The origin and evolutionary
relationships of ‘Huauzontle’ (Chenopodium nuttalliae Safford),
domesticated chenopod of Mexico.  American Journal of Botany 66:198-206.

for the midwestern U.S. chenopod, many works by Bruce Smith have been
reprinted in a 1992 Smithsonian book called ‘Rivers of Change:  Essays on
Early Agriculture in Eastern North America’.

PULQUE -- you can buy it in cans at some big city Mexican groceries (like
in Chicago).  Supposedly this is not as good as fresh pulque.  The canned
was pretty gross.  SDunavan




